Kellen Smetana
China threw everything it had at us except the kitchen sink on our final day of cycling through the country: an extremely welcoming homestay; an epically long climb; a breathtaking glacial lake; ridiculously beautiful (and ridiculously unnecessary) feats of infrastructure engineering; artificially induced rainstorms; and, of course, more tasty kebabs. The next day the border guard even enthusiastically reminded me that I possess a one-year multiple entry visa; so I can come back as many times as I want. But it was time to move on and only reminisce on these amazing experiences.
Our first day west of Urumqi we put up with a couple breaks in the road to enjoy the absolute solitude of a highway under construction. We had the road all to ourselves for about 50km. Setting up camp near a town later that day, we were passed by an evening group-ride from the local bike club who invited us to sleep in their headquarters in the back of the town’s local bike shop. It was another wonderful gesture of hospitality and we had a hearty sleep – complete with free water and beer – after posing for the requisite monthly newsletter photos.
China threw everything it had at us except the kitchen sink on our final day of cycling through the country: an extremely welcoming homestay; an epically long climb; a breathtaking glacial lake; ridiculously beautiful (and ridiculously unnecessary) feats of infrastructure engineering; artificially induced rainstorms; and, of course, more tasty kebabs. The next day the border guard even enthusiastically reminded me that I possess a one-year multiple entry visa; so I can come back as many times as I want. But it was time to move on and only reminisce on these amazing experiences.
Our first day west of Urumqi we put up with a couple breaks in the road to enjoy the absolute solitude of a highway under construction. We had the road all to ourselves for about 50km. Setting up camp near a town later that day, we were passed by an evening group-ride from the local bike club who invited us to sleep in their headquarters in the back of the town’s local bike shop. It was another wonderful gesture of hospitality and we had a hearty sleep – complete with free water and beer – after posing for the requisite monthly newsletter photos.
June Edition
The next few days were filled with rather hot, bland desert riding until we started the long climb out of China. Near the end of the climb, as the sun was fading and exhaustion catching on, we came upon a tiny town and the only man anywhere in sight came running out motioning the universal signs for eat, drink, and sleep. It didn’t take much more convincing than that. We ended up spending the night in a part truck-stop, part homestay. It was excellent; we refueled on Xinjiang noodle dishes, laid out provincial maps for our host, and even compared muscles with passing truckers.
I thought about trying the wine-glass test...
We are going to PUUMMP YOU UP!
The next morning we finished the climb and found ourselves skirting Sayram Hu, an absolutely breathtaking glacial lake. I was loving every second of it. It was one of those places that switches on some neuron in your brain to say, “it’s good-mood-time, it’s going to be a GOOD DAY!”
Sayram Hu and the local populace (sheep)
Like glass
We were so smitten that we even elected to brave the freezing waters for a quick swim on our snack break.
It was cold! Really, really cold.
Back on the road, we realized we actually hadn’t finished the climb. A short jaunt upwards and we were at the top, looking down on an explosion of lush green mountains. On the descent we passed yet more examples of aesthetically mind-boggling Chinese infrastructure development, built seemingly with the sole purpose of showing off to their Kazakh neighbors. The next few hours of weaving through green slopes, beautiful new bridges, and bubbling streams were awesome. Finally we opened into a large plain and got a bit wet again passing through several small thunderstorms induced by dynamite-sounding charges. Oh, China, I’ll certainly miss those aspects… (eyes-rolling). That evening, we slept in the border town and only rode two kilometers the following day before dismounting for our passage to Kazakhstan.
Gorgeous construction project
One country down, twenty-one to go.
But none will be as daunting, eye-opening, varied, wondrous, or tiring as China. The US is probably the only country I can think of that can compete in terms of landscape diversity. And it is certain that China holds gold medals in all categories of hectic, frantic, aggressive, and obnoxious driving. It was incredible to see a country in such flux. Development abounds in the dozens and dozens of new highways and urban construction projects, but inefficiencies are everywhere. Most rural homes are heated by central coal stove, and double-pane windows are nowhere to be found. The military state is evident in Tibetan and Uyghur areas, but rows and rows of teenagers are getting around the internet censors in wangbas (internet cafes) in affluent cities like Leshan, Guilin, and Dujiangyan.
Anyone out there looking to see some of the most beautiful places on earth, engorge on marvelously spicy and tasty food, break down serious language barriers, and generally feel like “you’re not in Kansas anymore,” come to China. The bicycle traverse was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Those who know me well know how much I love my Top 5 Lists. Of 68 days cycling through China, I have picked my favorite five and listed them chronologically below. You can probably spot these pretty easily in my previous posts.
Yangshuo to Guilin – Li River limestone karst scenery
Guiyang to Huangnitang – northern Guizhou province rapeseed fields
Zhenping to Songpan – Tibetan mountain villages
Qingshizui to Ebao – snow-capped bowl of Qinghai peaks (day after the brutal blizzard)
Santay to Korgas – Sayram Hu and lush green valleys
Simply amazing bicycle riding.
Last but not least, another month has passed and that entails another victor in the fundraising contest. May’s winner is Alex Baker, expect an email (or Skype chat if you’re lucky) from me soon. And to all, expect videos of these meals to be posted when able (soon).
But none will be as daunting, eye-opening, varied, wondrous, or tiring as China. The US is probably the only country I can think of that can compete in terms of landscape diversity. And it is certain that China holds gold medals in all categories of hectic, frantic, aggressive, and obnoxious driving. It was incredible to see a country in such flux. Development abounds in the dozens and dozens of new highways and urban construction projects, but inefficiencies are everywhere. Most rural homes are heated by central coal stove, and double-pane windows are nowhere to be found. The military state is evident in Tibetan and Uyghur areas, but rows and rows of teenagers are getting around the internet censors in wangbas (internet cafes) in affluent cities like Leshan, Guilin, and Dujiangyan.
Anyone out there looking to see some of the most beautiful places on earth, engorge on marvelously spicy and tasty food, break down serious language barriers, and generally feel like “you’re not in Kansas anymore,” come to China. The bicycle traverse was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Those who know me well know how much I love my Top 5 Lists. Of 68 days cycling through China, I have picked my favorite five and listed them chronologically below. You can probably spot these pretty easily in my previous posts.
Yangshuo to Guilin – Li River limestone karst scenery
Guiyang to Huangnitang – northern Guizhou province rapeseed fields
Zhenping to Songpan – Tibetan mountain villages
Qingshizui to Ebao – snow-capped bowl of Qinghai peaks (day after the brutal blizzard)
Santay to Korgas – Sayram Hu and lush green valleys
Simply amazing bicycle riding.
Last but not least, another month has passed and that entails another victor in the fundraising contest. May’s winner is Alex Baker, expect an email (or Skype chat if you’re lucky) from me soon. And to all, expect videos of these meals to be posted when able (soon).
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