Kellen Smetana
I should have put 2 and 2 together sooner. Every single traveller we met in Bishkek was in Kyrgyzstan to do high-altitude mountain trekking, long horse treks, or crisscross the country on some kind of ‘cycle (bi- or motor-). Nobody was simply passing through on a backpacker route. I can now see why: this country is intense and simply oozing natural beauty.
I should have put 2 and 2 together sooner. Every single traveller we met in Bishkek was in Kyrgyzstan to do high-altitude mountain trekking, long horse treks, or crisscross the country on some kind of ‘cycle (bi- or motor-). Nobody was simply passing through on a backpacker route. I can now see why: this country is intense and simply oozing natural beauty.
Simply oozing
Leaving the guesthouse, the owner’s wife came out to bid us adieu as she said “it is always very moving to see the cyclists ride off…” Small heartwarming actions such as that can almost make you feel like you have a mother watching over you even in these distant parts of the world; a wonderful start to the day from an amazing guesthouse (Sakurna’s if you ever find yourself in the Kyrgyz capital). We used the remainder of the day to put us at the base of the green hulking mountains sitting ready to swallow us up for the next week.
The next day was truly epic: 50km straight of very difficult climbing, the last 20 of which were almost entirely at a 12% grade. In seven hours we gained over 2,200 meters in elevation to put us at the top of the 3,264 meter (10,710 feet) Too-Ashuu pass. How do you say… “that was exhausting,” in Kyrgyz?
The ascent began simply enough; we followed a cobalt-colored, rapid-full river for a while. As soon as we left this, the road went nuts: switchback after switchback clinging to the side of lovely green mountains. About 10 kilometers from the top of the pass, a summer storm moved in (what would these high passes be without crazy weather…). Early in the climb we had been dripping in sweat, now we were drenched in rain and very cold. Finally, legs duly fatigued and body shivering, we reached the tunnel at the top. We found a weather station just off the road in which we were able to dry (somewhat) and layer on all our clothes, hoping to spare our hands and feet a repeat of the snowstorm descent in Qinghai. The workers manning the station were even nice enough to bring us some hot water to warm with.
The next day was truly epic: 50km straight of very difficult climbing, the last 20 of which were almost entirely at a 12% grade. In seven hours we gained over 2,200 meters in elevation to put us at the top of the 3,264 meter (10,710 feet) Too-Ashuu pass. How do you say… “that was exhausting,” in Kyrgyz?
The ascent began simply enough; we followed a cobalt-colored, rapid-full river for a while. As soon as we left this, the road went nuts: switchback after switchback clinging to the side of lovely green mountains. About 10 kilometers from the top of the pass, a summer storm moved in (what would these high passes be without crazy weather…). Early in the climb we had been dripping in sweat, now we were drenched in rain and very cold. Finally, legs duly fatigued and body shivering, we reached the tunnel at the top. We found a weather station just off the road in which we were able to dry (somewhat) and layer on all our clothes, hoping to spare our hands and feet a repeat of the snowstorm descent in Qinghai. The workers manning the station were even nice enough to bring us some hot water to warm with.
A three-hour look back in time (the road below)
Victory!
Ready to rock, we hit the tunnel. At 3 km, it was our longest of the trip, and we burst out on the other side into a beautiful green, open glacial valley filled with sun!
We spent the next day in this stunning valley and found an excellent campsite there as well. These high glacial valleys are known as jailoos in Kyrgyz and the country takes great pride in them. Many Kyrgyz still live in yurts in these jailoos and keep to a rather nomadic lifestyle. Not a bad place to call your home.
We spent the next day in this stunning valley and found an excellent campsite there as well. These high glacial valleys are known as jailoos in Kyrgyz and the country takes great pride in them. Many Kyrgyz still live in yurts in these jailoos and keep to a rather nomadic lifestyle. Not a bad place to call your home.
Your neighborhood yurt
Room with a view
A second pass got us out of the valley, and we went downhill… fast. It was basically the inverse of our climb the previous day, and this again we attacked in full rainstorm (though by now you could have assumed that…). The views, somewhat marred by the rain and clouds, were still incredible; it was quite possibly the greenest place I have ever been. Simply fantastic.
Wet and wild
On the descent I had my ninth through eleventh dog chases of the day. I feel I should write about these as you will see this statistic has skyrocketed since we left China (now I realize why Ben thought the dogs there were such wimps). Most dogs are just enticed by the excitement of a healthy chase, so the best remedy when I see – or hear – a hot pursuit starting is to slam on the brakes and hop off the bike. Within four seconds, either they have gotten bored or feel they have somehow won the battle (either one is fine with me) and retreat to their previous musings. In certain aggressive cases, like a couple on this descent, I’m happy to have my bike as a blocker between me and the canine’s set of pearly whites, but most of the time these encounters are only a minor annoyance. The fun chases – those that really get my heart pumping – are those where I have calculated my speed, the dogs’ distance, and, of course, their stature, and decide to outrun them. Later in the day I had three dogs howl away behind me for nearly a half-mile (my algorithm missed a slight uphill) before I sped away out of reach; it was just enough to get them riled up and ready for Ben, who was following close behind.
The rest of the week we skirted two alpine reservoirs, put in one more tough climb, and advanced through the rolling hills and deep red valleys of central Kyrgyzstan. The country is absolutely full of natural splendor; great campsites abound in a canvas of green mountains, azure reservoirs, bubbling rivers, and brilliant red rocks.
The rest of the week we skirted two alpine reservoirs, put in one more tough climb, and advanced through the rolling hills and deep red valleys of central Kyrgyzstan. The country is absolutely full of natural splendor; great campsites abound in a canvas of green mountains, azure reservoirs, bubbling rivers, and brilliant red rocks.
Wahoooo!
Sometimes it’s tough to truly appreciate the beauty of these places when I am spoiled with so much of it at once, but looking back through my photos I can see just how fortunate I am. Kyrgyzstan is a magnificent country tucked away in Central Asia and one that I will not soon forget.
Kyrgyzstan, period.
And one more for good measure
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