Cory Smetana
Yes, you read that name correctly.
“The package is in the open.” A famous line we quoted from Mission Impossible, although our package was Kellen’s new handlebar bag and we needed it in order to depart from Tashkent. It was exactly one week since I had arrived and I was anxious to start riding.
By 4pm that day Kellen and Theo walked in the courtyard of our hotel twirling their hands telling me to pack up because we’re leaving in 10 minutes. I had been waiting around all day and had a feeling this would happen… They had not retrieved the package, but had rerouted it to Bukhara, the third major city we would visit. We all said our goodbyes to Ben and were on our way.
Yes, you read that name correctly.
“The package is in the open.” A famous line we quoted from Mission Impossible, although our package was Kellen’s new handlebar bag and we needed it in order to depart from Tashkent. It was exactly one week since I had arrived and I was anxious to start riding.
By 4pm that day Kellen and Theo walked in the courtyard of our hotel twirling their hands telling me to pack up because we’re leaving in 10 minutes. I had been waiting around all day and had a feeling this would happen… They had not retrieved the package, but had rerouted it to Bukhara, the third major city we would visit. We all said our goodbyes to Ben and were on our way.
We still have a long way to go
The first day of riding was a short 40 kilometers because of our late start, but I was excited to get my first taste of riding and camping that night. After taking a break at a drink vendor alongside the road we realized it was getting dark. We had asked the vendor (who was selling drinks in her front yard) if we could set up camp in their driveway. She agreed but pointed across the street to an abandoned shelter that would be an even better campsite. We set up camp and ate dinner, and I was even able to get some use out of my newly purchased head torch, sleeping pad and silk sleep liner! Although the tent proved to be some tight sleeping quarters for Kellen and me, we got some decent rest as it cooled off into the thick of the night. It was a great start to our many nights we would spend on the road.
Assessing the road
The second day from Tashkent we had an early start that allowed us to make up some ground. I quickly learned that 135 kilometers of riding is a lot of riding and not an easy task. I was excited, but a bit nervous for the rolling hills we could see and would have to face the next day. By sunset we stumbled upon an aqueduct that ran perpendicular to the road. While walking down the dirt road that hugged the aqueduct we ran into a few farmers on their land. My brother taught me that by this time in the day it would be stupid not to ask if we could set up camp nearby and after a few magic words from Theo we were setting up our sleeping bags on their “tapchan” (a popular Central Asian bed/dinner table).
Settling in on the tapchan
After bathing in the flowing aqueduct, getting comfortable and pulling out the food for dinner (an exciting bread and kielbasa) we were surprised to find out they had invited us to dinner. Fish, bread, salad, soup, beer, a few rounds of Uzbek vodka was more than enough to fill our guts (or chiseled out cycling stomachs). We met the whole family, shared a few laughs and made out what we could from hand gestures and Theo’s translation. The family was even generous enough to cover the bill. This night immediately moved to the top of my list and this Uzbek family provided outstanding hospitality and made a big impression on my views of this foreign country.
Sunset aqueduct bath (left us out as we were 'au natural')
The next day of riding I will put on my list of top five most physically demanding feats I have accomplished in my life. In total we traveled 135 kilometers, including many brutal uphill sections and couldn’t seem to find any shade besides our lunch break. At 125 kilometers we had reached the sign for Samarkand, our destination. Every muscle in my body was cramping and I was breathing heavy. I thought, “this isn’t how an athletic kid like me should feel on just the third day of riding,” but my body was not used to the riding yet. Kellen and Theo had been riding for months. The most riding I had done back home in one day was on the cusp of 90 kilometers, and I had accomplished nearly 270 in two days! Now it made sense why my body hated me. So after saying no to a taxi ride, I managed to use the fumes I had left in order to make it to the guesthouse. When we arrived we were “rewarded” with some cold water and melon. I think getting to rest the following day made me go the extra 10 kilometers…
Time to recover in Samarkand
Soon after leaving Tashkent I started to become acclimated with this nomadic lifestyle. I had great experiences so far, but I was quick to learn that not every night would be so “perfect.” We were only a few days in and we knocked out 160 kilometers on this particular day of riding. We felt good. I was feeling more confident on the bike and we were making great time. Near sunset we found a shop just off the road where we had loaded up on shashlyk (skewers), soup, bread, watermelon, and some juice – a very hearty meal. While eating we met the man who owned the shop where we had purchased our food. Similar to the second night he had invited us to stay in the courtyard of his home. The night was off to a great start.
At his home, I brushed my teeth, sat on the tapchan, and suddenly felt my stomach turn. A few seconds later and I was bent over the railing. Let’s just say the food was much better coming in than going out. I glanced over to Kellen, who was curled up and mentioned he didn’t feel well as he witnessed my scene. He spent his night sitting in the courtyard, occasionally chatting with our host and occasionally duplicating my scene. We were struck with my first bout of food poisoning (Theo had been sick at the restaurant as well). On top of feeling ill, our sleep, or lack thereof, was short-lived by the 2:30am calling of roosters and other courtyard animals and incessant swatting of mosquitoes (Kellen was eaten alive and looked hilarious the next day). It was a rough night to say the least, but we survived and made it to Bukhara the next day mostly thanks to Theo dragging the two of us along. This is supposed to be a fun trip right?! I chalked that one up to part of the experience and learned that life on the road is much better on a settled stomach.
At his home, I brushed my teeth, sat on the tapchan, and suddenly felt my stomach turn. A few seconds later and I was bent over the railing. Let’s just say the food was much better coming in than going out. I glanced over to Kellen, who was curled up and mentioned he didn’t feel well as he witnessed my scene. He spent his night sitting in the courtyard, occasionally chatting with our host and occasionally duplicating my scene. We were struck with my first bout of food poisoning (Theo had been sick at the restaurant as well). On top of feeling ill, our sleep, or lack thereof, was short-lived by the 2:30am calling of roosters and other courtyard animals and incessant swatting of mosquitoes (Kellen was eaten alive and looked hilarious the next day). It was a rough night to say the least, but we survived and made it to Bukhara the next day mostly thanks to Theo dragging the two of us along. This is supposed to be a fun trip right?! I chalked that one up to part of the experience and learned that life on the road is much better on a settled stomach.
Something on the table was the culprit
Even the cat knows the best way to recover from food illness
So far the days of riding have been exhausting, eventful, exciting, and fun! Every day thus far is full of new faces, new foods, new sights, and new sounds (I can see why Kellen dislikes honking). We’re hoping for new pavement and well-cooked food as we continue west. I look forward to the rest of my trip and of course spending some quality time with my brother and our new teammate Theo.
Three's a crowd
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